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The New Face Of Beauty-Blog by Bio-Tec USA
What is meant by Active Beauty? The concept of Active Beauty
Published July 9th/2019
Until recently my client’s concerns were about active ingredients in skin creams, serums and lotions. Today their interest is in active beauty and how can this be good for skin? Active beauty is an advanced concept in skin science. The elucidation of new mechanisms in the ageing process and discovery of natural peptides, epigenetics, proteomics, in vitro cell techniques and other substances that will beneficially modify the ageing processes in the skin, has led to a greater sophistication in anti-ageing skin care concepts and products. The consumer interest has changed from wrinkle serums and moisturizing creams to more active formulations that have an effect beyond the stratum corneum. With an increasing consumer trend towards natural products, what’s more natural than harnessing the bacteria on your skin? Cutting edge research discover the latest advancement in therapeutic and cosmetic products containing live bacteria, bacterial extracts, or active ingredients capable to promote and protect the skins microbiome. Approximately 80% of people living in urban areas are exposed to air quality that exceeds the limits. Studies have shown that exposure to pollution is associated with extrinsic skin aging, accelerating a key consumer demand for anti-pollution products demonstrating the ability to prevent permeation of pollution components in skin. Pollution also impacts hair fibers by weakening the hair and causing scalp sensitivity. For instance, bio-polymers help to shield against the absorption of pollutant particles. Active beauty is now shaping the evolution of products adapted to the skin microbiome and its role in health and disease. Researchers and industry experts are now turning their attention towards the emerging relationship between the skin microbiome and healthy skin. This has the potential to revolutionize the beauty and personal care industry. Taking advantage of the uniqueness of Lactobacillus Bulgaricus itself and the longstanding work of Professor Nicola Alexandrov-Bulgarian academic with 30 plus patents on technologies, including one US patent, I was able to produce safe and highly pure probiotic based skin care products with proven cosmetic efficacy. Elie Mechnikov, a Russian-born biologist mentions in one of his works "The long and healthy life of the Bulgarians is a result of consumption of fermented dairy products”. The boundless potential of prebiotic, probiotic and postbiotic products being developed to protect and promote a healthy microbiome and combat dermatological conditions from acne and eczema to dandruff and skin allergies have exponentially influence the active beauty and personal care products. Active beauty is a result of clinical trials resulting in commercially viable therapeutics backed by science. Understanding the different paths to launch and market a cosmetic versus a therapeutic product is a regulatory consideration not to be discount and avoid. How regulators view these advances in skin wellness technologies and associated effectiveness claims will be explored and further discussed.
In that regard, communication to the consumers is a key, and comes with their education. In fact, skin microbiome communication is booming in beauty magazines and professional press over the last two years, and blogs are flourishing talking about those little microbes that are best partners for our beauty. For instance, Elle Magazine, in 2017, named the probiotics as the “bacteria which makes us beautiful”. Shortly after, Vogue claimed probiotics an “invisible anti-aging shield”, which “by strengthening the skin micro-flora, also inhibit the ageing signs in formation”, and encouraged their readers “start working probiotics into skincare routine”. Elle Magazine, Shape and Vanity Fair all talked about probiotics and skin microbiome as being the new, unavoidable, solution for beauty and very recently Forbes magazine also dedicated an article on the subject.
As a summary Active Beauty is innovative concept for skin products based on these microbiome ingredients capable to heal, repair and reprogram skins’ own DNA for health and longevity. Check out BIOTEC USA skin care products using the multilateral beneficial effects and uniqueness of Lactobacillus Bulgaricus and its incredible properties on the human body.
Chemical Peels, pushing the limits in chemical peeling of the facial rejuvenation
posted May 3rd,2019
Why I decide to write this blog? Why I think it will help not just the consumer but also medical and cosmetic practitioners who opt to #chemicalpeeling versus another resurfacing modality available in the market place.
Chemical peels are my preferred method of #facialrejuvenation and corrective procedures such as removal of #acnescars #removeDarkSpots, pigmentation, seborrheic keratosis, chemical peels for hypertrophic scars or #keloids since 1979. The difference between then and nowadays is that my peeling technique is more perfecting, and the peeling solutions are much improved regarding composition, potency and carrier or delivery system. So, it makes it very easy for the practitioner to pick up the right peeling solution precisely for the right skin problem to perform optimum results. Today the consumer is somehow scared about the zillion offerings of chemical peel. Posts on YouTube and other social media platforms confused people as well. Salicylic acid versus Glycolic peel, Medium depth peel versus Superficial peel, enzyme peels versus chemical peels, DIY peel versus professional peel. Chemical peeling is the application of a chemical agent to the skin, which leads to the controlled destruction of the epidermis with or without the dermis. This leads to skin exfoliation and the removal of tissue followed by regeneration of both the epidermal and dermal tissues. There are some limitations to their use in dark-skinned patients (Fitzpatrick skin type IV, V) and when resorcinol acid composed with alcohol is used produced prolonged pigmentation and unpleasant adverse effect.
Recently I attend a lecture on chemical peeling. The moderator was a doctor from France and the panel doctors from Israel, UK, France all utilizing daily peels in their practices with fabulous results but not one chemist producing finished chemical peel solution was invited. The moderator presented a few bad results from peeling. That upset somehow the panel and I was urged to post my opinion on the matter. So, this is what I typed. “There is always possibility of mild to serious scaring not just with chemical peeling but with lasers as well and if you burn the skin you must know how to cure the burn right away.” The moderator just mention that phenol peel was used but did not have the knowledge of the composition precisely ( there is many phenol formulation options), he has no way of knowing if the patient followed up the post peeling instructions, in fact he has no way of knowing what the patient was doing after leaving the doctor’s office. Rehabilitation must be clearly outlined before the procedure. I call the patient in 48 hours after medium level peel to make sure that all my post peel instructions are executed. Regarding prepping the skin with multiple products before the procedure, I consider this approach pointless because what is the purpose of prepping since I must peel the skin, except chemical peel for #melasma. The usual treatment for melasma is a triple combination therapy composed of hydroquinone, retinoic acid and a topical steroid. For example, tretinoin limits the oxidation of hydroquinone and improves epidermal penetration while the steroid reduces irritation and, as a result, triple therapy leads to a faster response with fewer side-effects when combined with chemical peel. The topical steroid used is frequently of a low potency, this is because higher potency steroids have been shown to have both a higher side-effect profile and a higher relapse rate and should be prescribed with caution. It’s better to splurge on good products in the post-peel period a) for faster recovery and b) to maintain optimum skin rejuvenation. I use Osmotic Peel SP alcohol-free control delivery chemical peel with no side effects of any kind to prep the skin for medium depth peel for instance. Any peeling agent dissolved in alcohol with multiple sessions will only smooth the skin, but the brown spots, pigmentation of any kind will be still there. The most efficient peels today are complex compounds made for comfort not for pain, for results not for publicity, “double action peel, organic cream peel “is all gobbledygook. I have documented hundreds of before and after with impressive results. Posting these cases on my website or social media requires a consent from the patient. Privacy is another issue to keep good relations with the patrons. There are no new trends in chemical peeling but rather new peeling innovative solutions with old peeling agents. Knowledge of anatomy is imperative in chemo- abrasion and peeling. Aging of the face is non-synchronized process and segmented peeling techniques should be performed with different peeling solutions in one session for optimum patient satisfaction. Happy customers, happy practice. Chemical pees have been around for decades and they are the most popular and pocket-friendly choice for many people.
What's New in 2019 #Personal Care products
Posted on March 7, 2019 at 1:15 PM
This is the usual time when licensed professionals asked me about new trends in skin care and minimally-invasive skin aging treatments, what should they look out for and what are set to be hot topics in the industry? It used to be location, location and location. Today is the technology that makes your practice easy and puts you upfront the competition. Learn new methodologies and techniques, stay relevant and invest in yourself. If you do not evolve with the current trends and times at some point you’ll be out of the loop. Make sure you deliver an exceptional experience not just a service with a price tag. Here is a brief summary of what will not only be hot property in the skin care marketplace for 2019, but what to look out for at some workshops this coming year.
Trend 2: Seeing is believing. Consumer demand for instant gratification and rapid effects with long-lasting health benefits.
Trend 3: It’s all about you. Customization was a big trend of 2018 and it’s going to get even bigger in 2019. Customization can be incorporated into new products easily in one or more ways. Innovative formulations and functional-active-materials that provide robust solutions for various skin conditions will accommodate the most demanding customer with fantastic results.
Trend 4: I care about the environment too. Natural and sustainable ingredients in skin care products are ongoing consumer favorites in the environmentally-focused global beauty trend. Demand for these types of materials continues to grow at a steady rate plus watch for new marine actives – ‘blue’ is the new ‘green’, probiotics versus prebiotics. My research on skin care products containing Lactobacillus Bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophiles will be published soon.
Trend 5: Feel good and look better. Products should feel great on application, giving the consumer instant sensory gratification. Also incorporating epigenetic or neuro-cosmetic actives, for holistic approach skincare, helps reinforce consumers’ growing need to feel like they’re taking control for one aspect of their life and skin well-being. There are also increasing numbers of functional and active materials that help provide protection not just from UV but also pollution, blue light, allergies and other sensitivities– it all adds to well being approach to skin care and minimally-invasive skin treatments.
Looking forward to hear from you. Best wishes for a successful business.
I shall continue my two distinct hands-on educational courses in 2019. The Basic/Next Gen Track for young professionals and the Advanced Track for those interested in learning about cutting edge science, technologies and product innovations.
Should quality synthetic ingredients matter more than natural ingredients?
Posted on March 7, 2019 at 1:15 PM
Just because a skin care product is advertised with beautiful plant or garden as a back fond does not mean a moisturizer or a facial serum is free of toxic material. In fact, natural ingredients can generate unexpected toxicity despite of the good intention of the producer. In many cases the whole plant extract may be anti-inflammatory but some of its components when isolated can cause allergic reaction. Many of the plant derived component, when removed from their natural environment lose their stability rapidly. Pesticides, heavy metals, microbial burden, residual solvents, isolation (extraction methods), purification and many other factors can affect the quality of the plant extract. Stability and efficacy are the biggest challenges faced by the producer with natural skin care products. For instance, the finished product can be rich or poor in phytochemicals/ antioxidants and the photo-chemistry breakdown composition plus storage, delivery to the lab and final preservation can vary greatly. For example, you believe that the oolong tea is very rich in antioxidants but pouring hot water accelerate oxidation of phyto-chemicals and solidified actives that can contribute to loss of efficacy. I understand that well-being is the increasing convergence of beauty and skin health and especially Instagram, a social media platform champions the natural and organic idea of wellness. Attractive and inspirational pictures of Millennial are posted adopting the natural beauty trend. Health and well-being has transformed consumer life style and habits. It’s no longer about being skinny, it’s about being fit. Anti-aging is a passe.
So to answer your question skin care products made with quality bio-engineered ingredients or combined with natural ingredients are more effective and safe with better performance than just natural products.
Most of my new customers are looking for a help on cutting the clutter and choosing the right product for them. Customization or a beauty by prescription from a trusted provider is a growing consumer demand for personalized skin care compliance. My advice is to get your products from a licensed professional.
CELLULITE and BODY CONTOURING
Posted on May 29, 2016 at 8:45 AM
Usually at this time of the year the topic for cellulite become more relevant. While normal fat can be reduced through exercise and diet, cellulite cannot. I have combined 35 plus years’ expertise with the latest technology to reduce cellulite for hundreds of women. Many factors contribute to the formation of cellulite and as a result we can identify different types of cellulite with specific physiology and appearance. Body Rehab is a 4-week intensive treatment program utilizing the latest technological advances. It combines a) variable electrical current (a very sophisticated patent microprocessor breaks down the calcified fatty deposits, stimulates the lymph system, and assists in ejecting mobilized fats, increases the muscular metabolism, which reaffirms and tones the muscles) and b) pneumatic lymphatic massage which squeezes the liquefied fat and fluids in one direction towards the kidneys, and helps the body to eliminate fat deposits. This patented device perform lymphatic drainage for the whole body in 40 minutes compared to three hours when execute manually. I’ve recorded best results for women with 15 lbs. above their healthy weight and mostly flabbiness aka water retention. For thick cellulite a third procedure mesotherapy is added (the administration of minimum doses of medicine by means of intradermic punctures in the area underlying the pathological focal point to be treated).
What you can expect after just one treatment? - smoother skin and tone muscles.. Most cool or hot laser treatments for cellulite just shrink fat cells but do not direct them to the lymph and kidneys to eject. This is why such treatments give partial and short term results. Keep in mind that cellulite is a tri-factor of water retention, mobilized fat deposits and muscle weakness. My body rehab program address all of them plus the accelerating effect of topically applied natural serums in proprietary carriers with manual lymphatic massage. Average results obtained during the program are loss of 12 to 18 pounds depending on age, lifestyle, activity and genetic history. The results are obtained with an ultrasonic device rather than photography of before and after which have no scientific values. This program is not designed to treat medical conditions such as obesity.
Micellar Cleansers- Are they better than my regular face wash?
Posted on March 30, 2016 at 4:20 PM
Recently I’m getting more emails and calls about the “new micellar” cleanser. My customers are using BIO-TEC USA micellar cleanser since April 2009 so the micellar water facial cleansers are not new in the market. The brief description on my store page explain the difference in the physical use of my micellar cleanser versus other similar products.
Any cosmetic product in the market is more than just an ingredient buzz. The core benefits - why are you buying the product and the functionality among many other features are important. For instance, I’m using an antibacterial foam dispenser to prevent from bacteria contamination and to extend the shelf life and use of the cleanser. If you pour your micellar water cleanser over a cotton pad you probably will finish it in a month plus cotton pads do not cleanse the skin, they only remove makeup. Massaging the gentle micellar foam into the skin leaves the skin fresh, soft and perfectly clean and 5 oz. bottle will last you 4 months, so use cotton pads only for eye makeup removing. Of course they are better than your high alkaline soap base cleanser. Someone asked me which serum or cream from my store page will quickly fix her wrinkles. With current advances in cosmetic science and skin biology , we now know that wrinkles have two major causes; a mechanical cause due to unceasing contractions of the facial muscles and the biological cause altering the vital functions of the skin.
Few innovative skin care products have been developed combining both effects countering the formation of mechanical wrinkles and the formation of biological wrinkles. Some products target the gene expression others contain regenerative protein to strengthen the dermal tissue and needless to mention the hype about plant stem cells creams with very mediocre effectiveness, organic facial creams with non-negligible toxicity and the list goes on. My advice is simple, if you want to avoid botulin or hyaluronic acid injections, medium to deep dermal chemical peels or face thread/ suture lifts for a quick fix, it’s worth to try EWR (expression wrinkle relaxer)serum and cream facial kit. I guarantee good results and exceptional value.
Skin Rejuvenation with Probiotics
Posted on March 23, 2016 at 12:30 am
Each time I launch a new product I’m overwhelmed with questions such as: “Should I change my current serum and cream?” “What will this new facial do to my skin?” “Is the 24-hour rejuvenator better than the caviar and truffle cream?”, and so on…
The answer to the first question is NO. If your skin is happy with the products in your daily regiment you do not have to make a change, however if you have used the same serum and moisturizer for let’s say, 2 years, the answer is YES. It's a good idea changing your facial products twice a year, except the cleanser. To answer the second question about my new Spring facial with probiotics I’ll give you a brief recap of the story behind the idea.
We all know the benefits of original not modified milk products. For instance, drinking goat milk directly without heating can kill many cancer cells, and of course we’ve heard bathing in raw milk is good for the skin. The main question remains how cosmetics with probiotics can penetrate the skin. Most of the skin care products with milk substances oxidized, change color and have unpleasant smell. The only way to produce original cosmetics with the benefits of LACTOBACILLUS BULGARICUS and STREPTOCCOCUS TERMOPHILLUS is to use two biological processes converting the Bulgarian yogurt into powder through liophylisation. The powder is very stable at least for 5 years and contains more than 100 million live cells plus vitamins, enzymes and amino acids. In my facial I activate the fermented powder with rose oil and pure distilled rose water. This is what I call original skin care products for TOTAL SKIN REJUVENATION back up by science.
Now, here is the answer to your 3rd question. Both skin care products are not competing, they are just very different. Think of your skin as a beautiful plant for instance. If you want to stay beautiful you must take care of the soil, add nutrients, minerals and water it. Even with my multi-functional concept it’s simply not doable to put all the gems in one necklace, so the 24-hour Rejuvenator will moisturize your skin and the caviar and truffle/bio cell cream will feed/ nourish your skin. I call it the gourmet approach to the fountain of Beauty.